Laatikolle menee ihan fyysinenkin yhteys, vaijeri (tai tanko tms.)
Tuossa vaihteenvalitsimen kortissa lienee elektroniikkaa enemmänkin (ainakin AL4 versiossa, mutta valitsin on ilmeisesti ainakin melko samanlainen alkupään mekaanisine ongelmineen), tuolla kerrotaan että automaattiasennossa molemmissa signaalijohdoissa pitäisi olla 6 V??
"however it's a Citroen so that would be far too simple.
There are 3 hall effect switch ICs, 2 transistors and several resistors and capacitors. Hall effect ICs are like solid state reed switches and the ones on this board switch on when a magnet is moved near to them. There are 4 wires connected to the board and in my case there was only just enough slack to carefully lever the board out and break one off, I extended the wires to allow me to poke about with the circuit. The red wire is +12V the Black is 0V and the other two are the signal wires. After a lot of trouble I traced these signal wires to the gearbox ECU under the bonnet. When working correctly both signal wires have over 6V on them in auto mode. When you put the the lever into the manual position only the centre hall effect switch is activated and this causes both signal wires to go down to less than 2.5V. When you push the lever forwards or backwards (change up or down) because the magnet is quite long the middle HE switch stays on but one of the other 2 also turns on which makes one or other of the signal wires go to over 6V.
The components are very small (surface mounted) so I unsoldered the board and took it inside to work on under a magnifier. I replaced one of the hall effect ICs with a similar part ( A1102EUA-T ), which I bough from Farnell (part no 1521704) in the UK for just over a £1 which I suspect is much cheaper than a board from Citroen, I believe they charge £80 just to run a diagnosis! One of the transistors read a bit odd so while I had the board out I replaced both of them with ZTX320s (they are only a few pence each and I had some in a box). Anyway, I reassembled it all - the buttons are a bit fiddly and now it works fine. I drew out the circuit of the little board and if anybody is interested I could try to post it on here. If you get the board out, even if you don't feel up to fixing it yourself, there should be enough information here to enable your local TV repair man / electronics hobbyist to test and fix it."
http://208.109.243.230/forum/showthread.php?p=796379noin pitkälti olet jo purkanutki, eli noista kuvista ei taida olla apua
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67307[EDIT]Voikohan vaijerin toimivuutta ja säätöä tarkistaa sillä että kokeilee työntää autoa ja testaa meneeko vaihteiston P-lukko päälle oikeassa kohdassa (ja irtaantuu taas toisinpäin R:lle mentäessä)
Piilota foorumit
